Wednesday, February 11, 2009

The only thing worse than a bee in your bonnet is a bee in your wetsuit

After Tayrona I decided to spend a few more days in Taganga before moving on. It was tough to muster the motivation to leave the hotel's inviting hammock patio, and I'd met a fun group of travelers in there.

When I returned to Taganga, I met Monique, an Aussie traveler who was also PADI certified and interested in checking out the diving in Taganga. We did a couple of fun dives with one of the local dive operators. The dives themselves were nice and he visibility was good (I saw seahorses for the first time!), but the water was 21-22 degrees Celsius (which for those of you who work in Fahrenheit, equates to DAMN cold). By the end of the second dive, I was ready to swear off non-tropical dive excursions for the rest of my life.

I also had a little altercation with a bee who found his way into my wetsuit during our surface interval. Not fun. Luckily, the little addition to my dive gear was a harmless little sweat bee and not a wasp or yellow jacket.

From Colombia 2009

Taganga from inside a taxi


From Colombia 2009

Sunday at the beach


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Chris and Alex, a super-cool Canadian couple I met at Casa de Felipe


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My dive partner, Monique


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Working on my tan


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Sunset over Taganga


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The patio


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The greatest idea ever, you get to hang out with your friends and never have to get out of the hammock!


From Colombia 2009

See what I mean about hard to leave?


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More Casa de Felipe


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Monique, enjoying a post-dive beverage

Tayrona National Park

From the moment that I arrived in Taganga, I've been hearing about Tayrona National Park. Originally, I wanted to visit the park as a day trip from Taganga, but after talking with some other folks at the hostel, I learned that the process of getting to the park was (of course) more complicated and time consuming than I had anticipated. Since it was going to be a project to get to Tayrona, I figured it would be worthwhile to stay overnight (I should have know that getting to an obscure Colombian national park would be would not be simple, but hey I've been off the trail for a year now, so I'm a little rusty.)

Two travellers from the hostel, Sean and Christian were going to the park as well, so we headed off together in search of some of Colombia's finest beaches. After an hour in a taxi, 15 minutes by jeep and 2 hours of sloshing through a muddy jungle path, we arrived at the Finca El Cabo San Juan camp-site in the park. The stories proved true, Tayrona's beaches were fantastic.

Close your eyes and imagine long stretches of white sand beaches lined with palm trees. The waves gently lap the shore and a cool breeze ripples through the trees...that's Tayrona national park. The park is one of those perfect places to do absolutely nothing. Options include (but are not limited to) swimming, chilling on the beach with a good book, hiking on trails through the jungle, or napping in the hammock. I did all four. :-)

Other than Sean and Christian I also spent time in the park with Marcello and Katherine, an Italian-American couple I met there. Katherine and Marcello were really cool, and talking with them provided me with the opportunity to practice my Italian (which has basically been in hibernation since I graduated from college). Perhaps it was he handful of days in Taganga speaking Spanish that wrestled the language skills out from the far corners of my mind, but I was able to slip back into basic conversational Italian with relative ease. AND (this is the really important part)...I was also able to switch back to Spanish without lapsing into my "Spantaliano" hybrid for several days (which is what normally happens when I do a lot of switching between English, Spanish and Italian).

After the ordeal of getting to the park, I was keen to find an alternative (i.e. faster) route back to Taganga. Supposedly, when the sea is clam, a small boat makes the trip between Tayrona and Taganga. Katherine and Marcello also wanted to try the boat, so after breakfast on day two, we sat on the beach and waited for the "lancha" (small motorboat)to arrive from Taganga and take passengers back. Eventually a boat with about 12 seasick looking backpackers approached the beach. The waves were large, so when the boat was 20 feet from the shore, people started to bail overboard and swim ashore. Everyone from he boat kissed the sand and then either proceeded to get sick in the bushes, or started crying and hugging their fellow passengers. Hmmmmm, perhaps the sea is a little rougher than I thought. Suddenly the long route through the jungle was sounding pretty nice. Four hours, a jungle hike with a horse, a pickup truck and two mini-bus rides later, I was back in Taganga at La Casa de Felipe...in the hammock watching the sun set over the Caribbean.

From Colombia 2009

Jeep to Tayrona


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The hike through the jungle begins...


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Christian leaping across a mud pit during the hike


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Orange juicer in the middle of the jungle, just in case you have a hankering for some OJ during your hike and came prepared with a bag of oranges


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Arriving at the beach with Sean


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Heron at Arrecifes beach


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Views from the walk to the camp-site


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Home, sweet, home for the night (my first full night in a hammock...they are definitely not made for tall people)


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Moonlight on the beach


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Finca El Cabo San Juan


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Hanging out on one of the beautiful beaches


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Afternoon clouds roll in


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The scene at the boat arrival


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Walking back with Marcello and Katherine


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Hiking along the beach


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Palms


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:-)

Monday, February 9, 2009

Julia's Adventures in Big, Bad Colombia

I've decided to take a mini excursion to Colombia. I have the unique opportunity of taking a few weeks off and decided to get my travel fix before returning to the grind (or "back to the salt mine" as my dad would say). I picked Colombia because I heard travelers raving about it non-stop when I was in Central America in 2007.

Naturally, I did my homework on the safety aspect and will be vigilant about avoiding any regions still experiencing socio-political instability (fortunately it sounds like most of the trouble spots are regionally isolated). I promise not go go wandering off into the jungle by myself, and (yes, mom) I promise to be careful.

I arrived in Bogotá late on Monday evening for one night before heading up to the Caribbean coast. Before I left San Francisco, I'd been experiencing side effects from my Yellow Fever vaccination. That combined with the extreme change in altitude (Bogotá sits at 2600 meters) made for probably one of the most miserable nights I've had in a while (I will spare you the details, but it was not pretty). This wasn't the ideal way to start out in Colombia, but you just have to roll with the punches.

After my one night in Bogotá, I headed back to the airport, jumped on a flight to Santa Marta and then continued on to the fishing village of Taganga (on the Caribbean coast, close to Venezuela). The whole deal was fairly seamless and I landed in a great hostel (La Casa de Felipe) in Taganga.

Colombia is nothing like the picture painted by the foreign media during the late 1990s. Contrary to popular belief, Pablo Escobar-types are not lurking around every turn and masked guerrilla fighters do not roam the streets snatching up blond, American tourists. What has struck me, however, is the kindness of almost every Colombian I've met. People have been so warm, welcoming and eager to help visitors (similar to the vibe I experienced this in the Philippines).

For example...on the plane to Santa Marta, I asked the passenger to my left about the approximate price of a taxi from Santa Marta to Taganga (I like to do this when I land in a new place so I have a target in mind before I enter the cab-driver gauntlet). Most of the time, this question results in a short exchange, and then I go about my own business getting a taxi. In this case, however, my neighbor waited for me to retrieve my luggage, then personally helped me talk with the drivers waiting at the airport so I was sure to get an honest taxi and a fair price. I've already had several experiences like this during my few short days in Colombia, which makes me think I will like it here...

From Colombia 2009

Bogotá airport: you can hardly see this in the photo, but the sign says "the only risk is wanting to stay"


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Taxi to Taganga


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Making dinner with some fellow travelers at Casa de Felipe


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My room at Casa de Felipe


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The chill-out hammock patio (I think there are 2 hammocks for every 1 person staying here)


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Taganga town


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Hiking to the beaches with Jo and Alec

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"Playa Grande" - worth the hike!

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Taganga