Ko Lipe, a little slice of paradise

So, I'm not going to lie, up to the point when I left Krabi, Southern Thailand struck me as much more commercial than I had ever expected. All of the places I'd visited were beautiful, interesting, lively and full of activity, but I had been seeking something more tranquil and genuine (nice beaches, friendly travelers/locals, a handful of little beach bars...Perhentian islands, anyone?).

All was not lost, as I found what I was looking for in Ko Lipe. A Belgian friend, Quentin, who I had met in Vietnam, swore up and down that Ko Lipe was the most amazing place in Thailand, so I decided to check it out. From Krabi, I hopped on a bus and headed about as far south as you can go in Thailand, before hitting Malaysia. I spent one night in the port town of Pak Bara, in a room that was really more like a cardboard box with a bed than a proper room, and headed to Ko Lipe in the morning.

Ko Lipe was fantastic: no cars, nearly no electricity, empty beaches, goods snorkeling, nice people and delicious food. I stayed in a small thatched-roof bamboo bungalow right in front of the beach. One bed, a mosquito net and a bucket/hose shower set up. I know it sounds strange, but there is something very calming about this "indoor camping" business. Plus, it reminds me of being in the corn islands with Anna and camping with my family as a kid.

I met some great people in Ko Lipe. Tania and Ilka were my primary partners in crime. We met on the ferry and hung out pretty much the whole time that we were on the island. They taught me some fascinating German beverage consumption customs (one which involves sticking your hand on your forehead when someone burps, or risk getting smacked in the forehead by the offending party, and others perhaps too lengthy and involved to spell out in this blog entry). In turn, I taught them some important American vocabulary words (the crucial slang their English teachers probably skipped in class). Tania and Ilka are fantastic ladies, and we had a blast, thus continuing my trend of meeting wonderful female travelers in Thailand. Ilka and Tania were also my 4th or 5th consecutive group of German travel companions. There are people from all over the world traveling in SE Asia, but I seem to be a German-magnet. No complaints here, all of my travel buddies have been great, and I have learned lots interesting things (like the life-or-death-importance of looking someone in the eyes when you say cheers). Perhaps, when the dollar stops its tailspin, a trip to Germany will be in order.

I also met Miguel and Brigitte, a couple from norcal who come to Ko Lipe every year. They showed me around the island and took me to some of their favorite snorkeling reefs. Miguel and I also swam across the channel to the neighboring island of Ko Adang. Despite sucking in a lot of saltwater from the waves, we both made it across the channel and back (without fins, mind you). I'm not 100% sure, but I think that the channel is about 1-1.5 km, wide. Back in my old swimming days, 2000-3000 meters have been a cake walk, but I'm just getting back into it after an 8-year hiatus, so I was pretty proud of myself.

My original plan to stay in Ko Lipe for 5 days, turned into 7 days, which turned into 9 days, and eventually I had to go because I was out of cash (no ATM on the island) and my Thai visa was set to expire. All good things must come to an end, but I will hold dear the memories of my time on this little slice of paradise.

-Julia


The boat to Ko Lipe


My bungalow


Bungalow interior


Enjoying a relaxed evening in Ko Lipe


Longtail boats


Miguel and Brigitte


Trails through the jungle


The empty beach right outside of the bungalows


The beach and view to Ko Adang


That's Ko Adang in the background and the channel I swam across


Ilka on her bungalow balcony


The Chao Ley (sea Gypsy) village


Hanging out with Tania


This bungalow (not mine) comes complete with authentic jungle-themed decor


Relaxing in the hammock


"A hammock is same-same like a toothbrush" (in terms of being a critical item for travel) - Ilka


Live music at the beach bar


Tania and Ilka


Interesting German drinking customs


Ilka and Tania


Chao Ley fishing traps


Fishing boats at sunset


My roommate, the largest non-tarantula spider I've ever encountered


Sunset on Ko Lipe


This little monster was waiting for me under my pillow one night


Goofing around with Ilka and Tania


Saying goodbye to Ko Lipe (yes, the name of the bungalow operation is the Porn Resort, and no, it has nothing to do with pornography, Porn is a Thai surname)


Tania naps on the ferry